Posts Tagged 'Vogue Patterns'

Vogue 1236

Vogue 1236

Hello everyone! I’ve been sewing up a storm lately and so I’ve got lots to share on this rather neglected little blog of mine….. but first I want to show you a few things I made towards the end of last summer. I made them in August last year but by the time I was ready to blog about them, autumn had arrived and I just didn’t feel like talking about sleeveless dresses and tops anymore. So here we are talking about Vogue 1236. It’s a great pattern and like all DKNY patterns, it oozes understated chic. It’s a simple but stylish dress that is great for work and as a day dress.

I made it up twice using quite different fabrics – the first one is a soft cotton voile with a soft drape (underlined with white voile) and the second version is made up in cotton seersucker.

Vogue 1236

This version actually started off as a test garment really after I’d made plenty of alterations and a muslin. It ended up as the couture version though!  This was my first foray into underlining as well as into using couture techniques a la Craftsy (well that’s not quite true – did you know that I was taught a hand-picked zip first and remember that a zip put in by machine seemed very strange to me indeed! That’s a story for another post though!) and I really enjoyed it – both the process and the end result. I underlined the voile in super soft white cotton voile and it really is lovely to wear.

Vogue 1236

Here’s a close-up showing the underlining and handstitched hem with rayon seam binding

As you can see, I didn’t have much hem allowance to play with. The reason for that was that I lengthened the pattern 2″ but I was pretty restricted on the fabric front.

Vogue 1236

In terms of other alterations – I made quite a lot! Broad back, high round back (I added a CB seam for that), swayback, forward shoulder, shortened ‘bodice’ both above and below the bustline and added a couple of inches to the hem. Most of these are pretty standard for me. I’ve been playing aound with broad back/round back alterations and this was one of those garments you make that makes you feel that you’re really getting somewhere with fitting. Since I made these dresses I’ve made more progress by using Craftsy’s Back, Neck and Shoulder techniques (I highly recommend the class if you have back/shoulder fitting issues) but I’ll tell you about that soon!

IMG_4586

I’ve worn both dresses a lot since I made them – they are fantastic for hot Greek summers and mild Cretan autumns. I will definitely make more in the future but I must say that fabric with a little drape to it gives this dress that little something extra – I love The Selfish Seamstress’s version in silk. I’ll keep my eye out for a silk print I think!

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The Classic Wrap Dress – Vogue 8379

This pattern is a classic and it really does deserve the glowing reviews on Pattern Review. It’s taken me 10 years to get round to making this dress – this was the first vogue pattern I ever bought – but I’m glad I decided to make it up because it really is a great wrap dress. I’ve wanted a wrap dress for as long as I can remember as they seem both flattering and practical so I’m glad I’ve finally got one!

Fabric: A synthetic mix knit – most probably viscose/polyester but with no lycra. Not super stretchy but with a nice drape without being clingy. I squeezed this dress out of 2m (2 1/4 yards) – see below for the alterations I made.

Pattern and construction notes:

I made up a 10 in the shoulders and bust and then out to a 14 waist and hip.

I shortened the bodice between shoulder and bustline by 3/8″ but I didn’t make my usual alteration to shorten between bustline and waist (I usually shorten the bodice by another 1″ or so) as nearly all the reviews emphasise how short waisted this pattern is. It fits perfectly so it’s definitely something to bear in mind when you’re making your flat pattern alterations.

I made my usual broad back alterations – I cut a size 12 back armhole and adjusted the sleeve cap accordingly. Take a look at this Threads article – it’s taken from Sandra Betzina’s Fast Fit alterations book which is great book and has taught me a lot about pattern alterations including the importance of flat pattern measurements. I also have Fit for Real People by Palmer and Alto which is also good – these two books have slightly different approaches but they are both extremely helpful and complement each other. I’d say I probably prefer Sandra Betzina’s approach as I really am not a fan of tissue fitting, but it’s great to have another perspective on the same fitting issue.

The other changes I made were to make it long-sleeved as I find it more practical for colder days and I also took 15″ of fullness out of the skirt due to fabric constaints. I shortened the hem but 1 1/2″ and I sewed the hem using my double needle – I had no desire to hem this dress by hand!

A little tip that I’ve picked up from the HotPatterns I’ve made up is to get all the little jobs out of the way before you start major constuction. For example, I applied all the interfacing, joined the facing pieces, made the belt and collar all before I started constructing the dress. I find it extremely frustrating to have to do these little jobs in the middle of construction when you’re on a roll and enjoying that feeling of it all coming together and taking shape. It means you have to study the constuction before you begin but I think that’s a good habit to get into anyway. I used to be so impatient when I sewed as I just wanted to be able to wear what I was making. But slowly I realised that if I don’t do things properly, or don’t correct my mistakes (if possible!) as I go along, I won’t be happy with the result and I won’t wear it.

The only thing I’m unhappy with on this dress is the neckline – it stretched out and the facing rolls to the outside. I topstitched the neckline to try to keep the facings in place which has helped but it still gapes. I must confess that I forgot to shorten the facing when I altered the bodice and sleeve pieces so I dare say that played it’s part too in the neckline not lying as it should! Anyway, next time I’m going to try stabilizing the neckline with clear elastic or go for a bound neckline (as used here by Ann at Gorgeous Fabrics) on a collarless version.

I’ve haven’t taken any photos of the dress on my because I’m 5 months pregnant (Yay!) and the wrap silouette is lost really! So, when I’ve got my waist back and the weather has turned autumnal here I’ll update the post with some photos on me!

Overall, it’s a great pattern and I’m sure I’ll make many more!

 


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